5 Terms Jewelry Lovers Need to Know

When purchasing jewelry you will often come across items that are described with unfamiliar terms. Here is the short list of what all jewelry lovers should really know.

AB - aurora borealis

Ab finish on Czech Glass and Swarovski Crystal

Like the flashes of the gorgeous colorful lighting seen in the northern lights, aurora borealis is a colorful finish that can be seen in some gemstones that are coated with metal oxides through vaporization techniques and in many kinds of beads and glassware that receive a special solvent coating.

March Birthstones

Birthstones Month of March

Bloodstone, diamond ring, bloodstone pendant, Shiva lingam, diamond,
bloodstone ring, porcelain jasper necklace, orbicular jasper

Who in this world of ours their eyes

 In March first open shall be wise,

 In days of peril firm and brave,

 And wear a bloodstone to their grave.

~ Tiffany & Co. published this poem and others for each month for the first time in a pamphlet in 1870.

November Birthstones

Birthstones-Month of November

Who first comes to this world below

 In dreary November's fog and snow,

 Should prize the topaz's amber hue,

 Emblem of friends and lovers true.

 

Citrine

~ Tiffany & Co. published this poem and others for each month for the first time in a pamphlet in 1870. The author or authors are unknown.

Sun Signs of Scorpio (Beryl-also known as Aquamarine) and Sagittarius (Yellow Topaz, Turquoise)

15th- 20th century-Golden Topaz, Pearl     

U.S. (18^th-19^th century)-Golden Topaz  

U.S. (*modern)-Golden Topaz, Citrine

Britain (modern)-Golden Topaz, Citrine

Hindu-Cat’s Eye

Golden Topaz

 

*The American, National Association of Jewelers met in Kansas and officially adopted a list which was and is used as the “modern” version of birthstones with very limited changes.

You may also like some other birthstone posts from this blog:

January  February   March   April   May   June
July   August   September   October   November   December

Differences Between Types of Glass and Crystal Beads 3

Part 3 of 3-True crystal beads

Crystal begins as glass until lead is added to it. Lead makes it easier to cut, and gives the bead more sparkle but it also makes the glass far more fragile. The process is considered very worthwhile since it is what gives the crystal its diamond-like appearance. 

Circlet made with Czech pressed glass and Czech Crystal Beads

Differences Between Types of Crystal & Glass Beads 2

Part 2-Fire Polished Beads and Crystal

In my last post I talked about several different kinds of glass beads. Today I continue along a similar vein. As my mom used to say, "It's sort of the same; only different!"

My mom-a pip if I ever knew one!

Czech glass is made without lead. It was discovered that by combining potash with chalk  a clear glass with excellent strength could be created. These beads come in every color of the rainbow and in myriad shapes including cubes, rectangular tubes, tubes, leaves,  rondelles, teardrops, ovals, flat ovals, donuts, cones, lanterns bagels and the ever popular round or “druk” that are used for making fire polished cut crystal rounds.

Czech pressed glass is made by pressing molten hot glass into a mold to form a specific design. Molten rods are fed into a mechanical apparatus which molds them into their desired shape. They are then rolled in sand to smooth any seam lines. Each rod can make multiple beads and thousands can be made daily. This process began because it allowed workers the ability to copy more expensive bead styles and create more elaborate colors at a great savings in both labor and cost.

This necklace features Czech pressed glass leaf beads with an aurora borealis finish

Beginning as a cottage industry over 200 years ago, Czech fire polished beads, also called Bohemian Crystal, are basically Czech pressed glass that is cut then polished using a firing method employing an open flame. This is a very different method than other crystal beads, as it is fired after being cut in order to smooth the edges of the cuts, rather than being cut after firing. There is no lead oxide in these beads, however, they still have a lovely luster to them. Another little known fact about these beads is that the shades of each vary from dye lot to dye lot and that the greater the diameter of the bead the more intense in color they become.

Bohemian crystal beads in teardrop and bicone shapes are used here along with Swarovski rhinestones.

Jablonex is the standard in this type of bead and came into being in 1945. After much criticism for using prisoners as forced labor they stopped this practice in 1989. Today many other companies have begun to thrive since Jablonex is no longer taking on new US clients.

When using the best quality in Czech beads is necessary look specifically for Czech table cut beads. Preciosa, founded in 1794, is the brand name that sets the standard in these beads and they have a great shine that is often compared to Swarovski crystal, having up to 34% lead and averaging 30%, but they are sturdier and will not chip and shatter as easily as Swarovski Crystal.

Preciosa Crystals are the standard in true Czech crystal.

Last in the lineup of fire polished beads are those now being sold by companies in India. In the last decade these companies have purchased some of the old machinery from Czech companies to produce similar beads to those produced in the Czech Republic. While they have duplicated the process, the Indian beads are lower in quality as the glass that is used to create them is not of the quality that the Czechs use.They also have a high fade rate and over time will begin to really show their inferiority, while the true Czech beads do not seem have this issue.

If you have any questions or need any clarification please do not hesitate to ask by contacting me through this blog or via my Facebook page or Twitter handle!  

Others in this series:

Part 1 of 3
Part 2 of 3 

Part 3 of 3 

 

August Birthstones

Birthstones-Month of August

Wear a Sardonyx or for thee,

No conjugal felicity;

The August-born without this stone,

`Tis said, must live unloved and lone.

 

~ Tiffany & Co. published this poem and others for each month in a pamphlet dated 1870. The author or authors are unknown.

From left to right: Sardonyx Cabochon, Raw Sardonyx, a carved Sardonyx cameo, sardonyx beads

Sun Signs of Leo (Onyx, Tourmaline) and Virgo (Carnelian, Jasper, Jade, Sapphire)

15th-20th Century: **Sardonyx, Carnelian, Moonstone, Topaz
U.S. 18th-19th centuries: **Sardonyx, Peridot
U.S. 20-21st centuries: (*modern)- Peridot
Britain: **Sardonyx
Hindu: Ruby

From left to right: emerald cut Peridot, Raw Peridot, cut Peridot oval, Peridot briolette beads

*The American, National Association of Jewelers met in Kansas and officially adopted a list which was and is used as the “modern” version of birthstones with very limited changes.

** Sardonyx is also known by several other names, determined usually by color. Onyx (black), Carnelian (red), agate (numerous colors). 

You may also like some other birthstone posts from this blog:

January  February   March   April   May   June
July   August   September   October   November   December

Birthstones by day of the Week

Differences Between Types of Glass and Crystal Beads

Part One of Three-Glass Beads

There are many different types of glass and crystal beads available to jewelry makers. Each artisan has multiple types to pick and choose from in almost every color of the rainbow. While, there are differences in each type, many people do not fully understand the terms used to identify each type or what the underlying differences mean.  Today I will begin to get into their differences so you can make an informed decision when purchasing jewelry.

Glass is sand, or silica, that has been melted down and cooled.  The sand is combined with various additives and cooled so that no crystal structures can form. In order for glass to become a true crystal it must have lead oxide added to it during the melting process.



Slip is applied to a rod before creating a wound bead



Wound glass beads were probably the earliest form of beads ever created.  This type of bead uses a wire or mandrel coated in a clay slip to allow the release of the bead once the glass has cooled. The glass may also be shaped by manipulation methods while it is still hot. Manipulation usually is done with graphite, wood, stainless steel, brass, tungsten steel or marble tools and paddles.



Wound glass beads



Lampwork beads, a variation on wound glass bead making techniques, are made by hand individually making the process very time consuming, yet it allows a great variety of designs and styles to be created. When this method was first employed by Venetian glass makers men primarily made their cores in a factory setting while women added multicolored decorations in their homes using an oil lamp to reheat the core and the fine wisps of glass that were used to decorate these cores.  Today these beads are crafted by using a gas torch and glass rods.



Lamp work glass beads



There is evidence that drawn glass beads were made as far back as the 2^nd century CE and were the most widely traded item in history having been found worldwide.  Making these beads involves taking molten glass and inserting a hollow metal tube into it and stretching a long cane of glass along it. The cane is then sliced and the resulting beads rolled in hot sand to round the edges and give them a smooth finish.



Drawn or African Trade Beads



Dichroic glass beads are created by fusing a thin film of metal to the surface of the glass being used to create them.  This causes the beads to reflect at least two colors which can be seen from different angles on the beads.  These beads can be pressed or made with traditional lampworking techniques, however, if kept in a flame too long it will cause the metallic coating to burn off so great care must be taken.

Dichroic Glass Beads

Furnace glass is an Italian glass blowing technique that is adapted to make beads by using large canes that are first built from multiple small canes.  They then encase these small canes in clear glass and extrude them to form the beads with striped patterns. While the technique is adapted from glass blowing techniques no air is used or blown into the glass.

Furnace Glass Beads

Next time I will take you through all things Czech and Fire Polished!

If you have any questions or need any clarification please do not hesitate to ask by contacting me through this blog or via my Facebook page or Twitter handle!  

Others in this series:

Part 1 of 3
Part 2 of 3 
Part 3 of 3